Tuesday, 4 November 2014

Self Drafted: Men's fall/winter coat

Sometimes I feel like I'm Eddard Stark. There's always a voice in my head telling me that the winter is approaching. Even during the (short) summer when there's 30 degrees Celcius outside. And I hate winter. I hate the cold and dark time of the year. And here it's about 8 months every year. Right now it's pitch black outside at five in the evening. No joke. But if there's anything I like about the cold season it's making coats(not wearing them, getting dressed during the fall/winter is a chore)

So here's a winter coat I made. This was a bit of a challenging/nerve wrecking project. The person who I made it for lives in London. I have never seen him and he couldn't come in for fittings. Yikes. So his wife came here, gave me his measurements(after I had given her detailed instructions on what I need and how to take them) and then I started the work. Luckily she brought a coat that fit Mr.London but that coat had raglan sleeves so...I had to improvise a lot.

The coat has wide peaked lapels, a classical collar, side pockets with flaps, a vent in the back and pockets in the front facing on both sides. I also added a buttonhole and a button on the lapel so he could close the front in full length when the weather gets particularly nasty.

As I didn't have to do any fittings, I drafted the coat like I would with any project, cut it out with 1cm seal allowance on all seams and started the work. Usually the pocket placement is determined in the first fitting but this time I could make the pocket before I attached the front to the back piece so it was so much more comfortable to sew. Less bulk on the table=win. Also for menswear the sleeves are cut out after first fitting(at least I'm taught like that) and now I could cut out the sleeves at the same time as the rest of the pieces so there's another win for ya.

The front pieces, front facings and collar pieces are fully interfaced, the back pieces and sleeves are partially interfaced. I also used additionally a heavyweight interfacing to support the breast area. I could have used hair canvas for this but on coats it's not necessary and interfacing will do the job just as well and without adding too much bulk. I did use hair canvas to shape the lapel and the bottom of the collar.

I also did quite a lot of top stitching for this thing. I am one of those weird people who actually loves top stitching. So the back seam and the front, the lapels and collars and pockets are all top stitched. I think it gives a very nice classical look to a coat.

And again: My favorite way to make pockets to the front facing and then connecting the facing to the lining. This right here is my jam, people.

And guess who forgot to take a picture of the back of the coat? This girl!

On a personal note. I have some news! If you are following me on Instagram you already know this, but I GOT ENGAGED! Mr.Man popped the question and promoted himself to Mr.Fiance. We are thinking about summer wedding and I will be making both his suit and my dress. I'm thinking lace, corsets and vintage vibe.


  1. Ahhh, congratulations. My marriage has been such a blessing and I always wish the same for new brides to be.
    As for the coat, Bravo!!! Beautiful

    1. Thank you :) I'm both excited and terrified at the same time. Marriage is a HUGE thing for me. But I'm still super happy to soon call him Hubby :)

  2. This coat is so sharp. Excellent work. And congrats on the engagement : )